So what do you think about headlamps --- Rechargeable or disposable batteries?
There are pros and cons to both. In the world of disposable batteries, standard AA or 9volt batteries have come a long way in development. They last longer than they used to and it is easy to carry extras without too much difficulty.
With the advent of LED lamp technology, the current draw on batteries has been reduced greatly. If you are fortunate enough tho own an LED type headlamp that operates off of disposable batteries, you just need to carry a set of spares for most caving trips.
The disadvantage of disposable batteries is the added weight to you caving pack with the addition of extra batteries.
If this is a concern, the rechargeable battery type my suit you better. By utilizing this type of headlamp, there is less need to carry spares. If you live by the rule of 3 light sources on each caving trip (and who doesn't?), you will have extra light sources to use if the rechargeable unit dies. You will probable still have to carry some spare batteries for the spare light sources as well but the number is reduced.
The rechargeable type lasts quite long, and can always be charged at camp for the next day. The are usually smaller and lighter battery packs as well.
I use a Stenlight and charge it with a DC/AC inverter at camp. This works well for me.
Hope this helps a little.
Sunday, January 31, 2010
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
Boots For Caving – What Should I Wear?
Depending on the area in which you cave, boot selection will vary. Just remember, whatever you wear, it has to be something dedicated to the sport of caving. These boots will not be good for anything else after just one caving trip. The tough environment of jagged rocks, slippery mud, water, and other unseen obstacles will literally chew up a pair of boots in record time.
If you cave in a wet environment, the boots should be water proof. A lot of European cavers use “Wellys”. They are really Hunter Wellington Boots and are made of solid rubber. In my area of the world we called them galoshes. They will definitely keep out the water. They aren’t very warm though, so if you need warmth and dryness use multiple layers of wool socks.
If you don’t have a lot of money, you can go the Army surplus store and pick up some military boots cheap. Waterproof them, and wear them until they wear out.
You can spend good money on quality hiking boots with Goretex and/or Thinsulate. They will keep you dry and warm. Keep in mind that when crawling on your hands and knees, the tops of the boots and the toes will wear out very quickly. Some type of rubber toes works well to alleviate this.
The boots need to have good tread on the soles. Many caves are very muddy in places and that mud will make it very difficult to traverse if the soles of you boots have inadequate tread. (HINT – carry a putty knife along with you to clean off mud as well as use as a hand hold in tight, semi-vertical, muddy crawls)
Be prepared to replace your boots sooner than you would normally do hiking boots. Make sure they are comfortable and have adequate ankle support. You don’t want to twist an ankle deep in the bowels of a cave. Returning to the surface will be painful and long.
Happy Caving!!!
If you cave in a wet environment, the boots should be water proof. A lot of European cavers use “Wellys”. They are really Hunter Wellington Boots and are made of solid rubber. In my area of the world we called them galoshes. They will definitely keep out the water. They aren’t very warm though, so if you need warmth and dryness use multiple layers of wool socks.
If you don’t have a lot of money, you can go the Army surplus store and pick up some military boots cheap. Waterproof them, and wear them until they wear out.
You can spend good money on quality hiking boots with Goretex and/or Thinsulate. They will keep you dry and warm. Keep in mind that when crawling on your hands and knees, the tops of the boots and the toes will wear out very quickly. Some type of rubber toes works well to alleviate this.
The boots need to have good tread on the soles. Many caves are very muddy in places and that mud will make it very difficult to traverse if the soles of you boots have inadequate tread. (HINT – carry a putty knife along with you to clean off mud as well as use as a hand hold in tight, semi-vertical, muddy crawls)
Be prepared to replace your boots sooner than you would normally do hiking boots. Make sure they are comfortable and have adequate ankle support. You don’t want to twist an ankle deep in the bowels of a cave. Returning to the surface will be painful and long.
Happy Caving!!!
Monday, January 18, 2010
What Type Of Helmet Is Best?
You must wear a helmet! They are not an accessory! Countless lives have been saved by helmets.
The choice of helmet is mostly personal preference but make sure you stay with a recognized brand of mountaineering, climbing or caving helmet. All these brands are certified for impact and will go far to save your life.
Petzl, Black Diamond, C.A.M.P USA Armour, Mammut, Kong, Edelrid and PMI manufacture great outdoors helmets. Choose a color or style that suits you. If you will be attaching a light source or camera to it, make sure that style accepts it.
Many helmets utilize attachment clips on the side to securely hold the strap of a head lamp. Others will have to be modified to hold a fixed light source or camera mount on the front. You may want to just attach a small flashlight to one side with an available flashlight mount.
Do not use a bicycle helmet, hard hat, boarding or skiing helmet. These helmets are specifically made for their individual sport. They may be more bulky, or not fit as tightly as you would need in a climbing or caving situation.
So, whether you are climbing rocks, caving deep into a mountain, mountaineering or canyoneering, you need a good helmet that will serve you for years.
One other thing! If you take a fall, your helmet as well as your harness, rope, attachment devices, ascenders and descenders need to be inspected for damage and replaced if necessary. The helmet especially needs inspection and if there are any signs of cracks, punctures or other scars – REPLACE IT! It will NOT hold up to another fall!
The choice of helmet is mostly personal preference but make sure you stay with a recognized brand of mountaineering, climbing or caving helmet. All these brands are certified for impact and will go far to save your life.
Petzl, Black Diamond, C.A.M.P USA Armour, Mammut, Kong, Edelrid and PMI manufacture great outdoors helmets. Choose a color or style that suits you. If you will be attaching a light source or camera to it, make sure that style accepts it.
Many helmets utilize attachment clips on the side to securely hold the strap of a head lamp. Others will have to be modified to hold a fixed light source or camera mount on the front. You may want to just attach a small flashlight to one side with an available flashlight mount.
Do not use a bicycle helmet, hard hat, boarding or skiing helmet. These helmets are specifically made for their individual sport. They may be more bulky, or not fit as tightly as you would need in a climbing or caving situation.
So, whether you are climbing rocks, caving deep into a mountain, mountaineering or canyoneering, you need a good helmet that will serve you for years.
One other thing! If you take a fall, your helmet as well as your harness, rope, attachment devices, ascenders and descenders need to be inspected for damage and replaced if necessary. The helmet especially needs inspection and if there are any signs of cracks, punctures or other scars – REPLACE IT! It will NOT hold up to another fall!
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